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Wood Tux Warm Honey for sale - Mar 2nd, 08, 08:47 PM

I have 5 unopened pails (25 gal) of Wood Tux Warm Honey. Im not certain but I think it is all the slow curing formula that was released last summer. I was told that it can be mixed 50/50 with the new formula or you can add a little japan dry. $450 for all of it plus shipping if you can not pick it up. email me at decksetcpowerwashing@gmail.com



Jim Noden
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Mar 5th, 08, 05:27 PM

Still available. $1000 worth of stain for $400. I will not go lower on price.



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Mar 5th, 08, 06:09 PM

I'll pay ya the $450 if you include the shipping to MA.



Daniel Tambasco
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Mar 5th, 08, 11:37 PM

I misread your post - you have some of that bad batch. I will only pay $400 tops - shipped!



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Mar 6th, 08, 09:55 AM

Get your money back from ESI. Why should you accept defective product. I had nothing but trouble with that stuff even mixing it.



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Mar 6th, 08, 10:40 AM

Jim are you saying that you mixed it 50/50 with the new stuff and a little Japan dry and still had problems?



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Mar 6th, 08, 10:46 AM

I have to agree with Jim on both counts. Get a refund. The stuff is worthless and cannot be fixed. Adding Japan or other chemical driers is a fairly precise procedure that needs to be done at the time of manufacture. Adding cobalt or other driers can actually make the problem worse and cause an even longer curing cycle.

The stuff last spring was a nightmare. I now have seven decks done with it that need to be redone. ESI has fixed the problem now and the new product this year should be fine. I would be reluctant to taint new product with that old stuff even if somewhere giving it to me free of charge.



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Mar 6th, 08, 11:40 AM

Ok nevermind. I talked to Russ and he is going to work with me on it. He is a good guy to do business with.



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Mar 6th, 08, 11:51 AM

Russ is a great guy. His customer service is right up there.



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Mar 6th, 08, 11:56 AM

Hey Russell - if you are reading these posts - I can tell you how to fix the problem - but I want big big discounts on your product. I know why the Jap drier was making the situation worse.



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Mar 6th, 08, 12:45 PM

I have some unused non-drying western cedar....any takers?

Beth



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Mar 7th, 08, 09:52 AM

I still have some cedar and brown sug in the old formula. Im going to mix those in with the new stuff at about 25 %



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Mar 7th, 08, 10:29 AM

Ok Jim - I am sick and tired of this, so I am going to let the cat out of the bag. The reason Russell F'd up - is because his advice was to put in more Jap drier - but this made things worse. Why, may you ask that a product that is intended to make something dry faster - actually made the cure even longer to the point it never truly cured at all? Ok - you can understand this when you understand the chemistry of Jap drier - Jap drier has for the most part cobolts and manganese driers - these are called 'surface' driers - if you put too much they will only make your product 'skin'. you have to go and search for other organo-mettalics that are considered 'through' driers. These driers allow the polymerisation to happen not just at the surface of a film but through out the entire coating. A commonly available 'through' drier also happens to be a wonderful fungicide - it's called zinc napthenate. You mix that stuff with the bad batches of woodtux - and they will instantly cure the way you want them to.



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Mar 7th, 08, 12:57 PM

Daniel thats good to know. I am training some new hires next week on my deck and my neighbors so I was willing to try to intermix the old stuff with the new to see how it cured on my deck first. I will try your advice on the zinc napthenate (you mean naphthenate?) since it seems like you know what you are talking about there. Can I get that stuff at a paint store or can it be bought locally? thanks.



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Mar 7th, 08, 05:59 PM

There is a product available at big box stores like Jasco's clear wood preservative that contains up to 25% zinc naphthenate. Mix like half of that into a 5'er - it looks pure white, but don't worry it won't affect the deck stain color. Add a cup of acetone to the mix - as the preservative will have a lot of H2O in it - the acetone along with WTW technology will make the two miscible. Don't bother mixing new batch with old - it won't do much. Just do what I say - you will get good results.



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