Finally stepped in it....

[RyanH]

After thinking and reading and talking and more thinking over the past 18 months, I *finally* went out and bought my first batch of ipe. It's only 100 square feet (20 10' x 6" boards) but the little porch I need to build is only 5 x 17 with a step or two. I'll also be using the aluminum tubes for ballusters.

So, the questions now....

It is brand new wood. I've read here and there on here that it is a good idea to clean it before staining. EFC-38 for this followed by some citric or oxalic? I also have a PT pine deck that is already looking rough I'd like to clean and stain. Should EFC work for both of these? I'd then like to follow up with Wood Tux. The porch is covered and won't be exposed to much in the way of weather (maybe some morning sun). If this one goes well it'll increase my confidence to handle the 1200 square foot monster I plan to work on sometime in the not too distant future.

Also, are there any negative effects to exposing concrete to cleaner / neutralizer? I planned on just laying the planks out on my driveway and cleaning them there before cutting and putting them up. Oh, and I also bought some of the wax for the cut-ends.

[Beth n Rod]

Cleaning it is good and neutralizing is good. Also take the time to do some sanding with no higher than 80 grit to help open up the pores (yes, hardwoods are porous) Apply the product to saturation but leave no excess on the surface. Your finish should be matte without any shine or gloss which would indicate over application. If over applied, remove to another uncoated board or wipe with a cloth moistened with mineral spirits.
A pad works well for application and gives an even spread. Make sure to get in between the boards as this helps give a more durable finish since these are the sides that are exposed and susceptible to drying which leads to cupping and cracking and side-ward deterioration of the product from exposure to moisture and temperature fluctuations at these areas.

Anything else??? Oh, no problems with the concrete during the cleaning/neutralizing at low concentrations (less than 8oz/gal EFC-38 and 3-4oz.gal Citralic) but the sealing part if you do it before installation could leaves some stains that are a bugger to remove completely.

Rod!~

[RyanH]

Thanks, Rod. I appreciate the info. No, I won't be sealing it on the driveway...I'll cut and assemble first. A "technicality"....are "sealing" and "staining" the same? If I apply Wood Tux, am I staining it, or am I sealing it? Or are they the same thing?

Also, I think the shiny finish on newly washed decks looks awesome. Is there a way, or would you every want, to make the finish shiny? I understand that overapplying can make the surface sticky on the outcome, but is there an additive or finish to apply afterwards? I know the hardwoods in my house are shiny and they look really good...I was thinking of the same for a deck.

[Beth n Rod]

Ryan,
Post a pics as you go! Pretty please....
Beth

[RyanH]

Starting working on my ghetto stoop today (finally catching up). Frame is built and 1/2 the ipe is cut. I'll be calling Russ this week to put in my order for the WT and cleaners. I'll have real pictures in a day or so, but for now here is the "conceptual" so I could build my shopping list. I've started way too many projects in the past 2 years where I either bought too many supplies or not enough and ended up making multiple trips to the store. This way it keeps me honest and makes me "fix" the problems before I get to them.

[Beth n Rod]

Planning is very helpful and does help keep down the costs. Good on ya!

Rod!~

[bforbis]

Hi Ryan,
Just curious if you special ordered the IPE or bought it locally? About how much does this wood cost relative to say PT pine? I would like to do a couple of project with it and trying to find a resource for the materials. I realize we are in totally difference locations, but it may give me an idea or others may be abloe to help!

Thanks

[CarolinaProWash]

Brent, now that you're not in NC anymore, check out www.internetlumber.com. We can't buy from them because of some licensing/territory thing but it can go to FL

Celeste

[bforbis]

Hey Thanks Celeste. Just after I posted I found a site and requested a quote on some IPE. They had a large selection of exotic wood to choose from it was called www.ipedepot.com.
Have you guys done any research or used them? It looks like they are out of Buffalo, NY.
I'm working on a couple of home projects for tables and stuff and looking for something really nice to build it out of. One will have an overlay type...inlay if that makes sense.

[RyanH]

I bought the lumber from South Lumber in Marietta for around $2 / LF for 1" x 6" (nominal). I'm not sure of the cost for PT decking, but I believe the ipe is 6 - 10 times more expensive. Well worth it though given the weather conditions in GA. I'm only using PT for the underlayment and in the visible banding around the porch (no large lumber choices available that I can find here).

[bforbis]

The link to the company I provided above was a little less than $2 per lf for the 1X6" IPE boards in 8 to 10 ft lengths as a special. Depending on the size and quanity price would range accordingly

[CarolinaProWash]

Originally Posted by bforbis

Hey Thanks Celeste. Just after I posted I found a site and requested a quote on some IPE. They had a large selection of exotic wood to choose from it was called www.ipedepot.com.
Have you guys done any research or used them? It looks like they are out of Buffalo, NY.
I'm working on a couple of home projects for tables and stuff and looking for something really nice to build it out of. One will have an overlay type...inlay if that makes sense.

Not used Ipe Depot......I have been to the warehouse for Internetlumber.com though....I was able to get my Ipe tiles there that we used in our tradeshow boot.

Speaking of overlay with the Ipe.....I found this pic online and loved the concept

[Mike Sullivan]

I have talked to Pete Marantey with Sunbrite decks about Ipe and he said Ipe is somewhat oily/moist when it is first cut and needs to dry out for at least a year before applying a stain so it will soak in better.

I encountered this problem with a customer here in Belews Creek, NC. They applied Cabot's Australian Timber Oil on fresh cut Ipe and it started failing in less than six months after application. Don't know if this would happen with other sealers like Wood Tux or ReadySeal. Perhaps it wouldn't fail with these products if applied immediately on fresh Ipe. I haven't worked with Ipe before so I can't say from personal experience.

[Neil_Asheville]

Mike. ATO failing in 6 months on newly installed ipe isn't uncommon. Improper prep is the biggest culprit, especially homeowner prepped and that alone was prob the biggest issue with premature failing. Newly milled wood of any species will have a higher moisture content than stock that's been in the yard or on a deck for 1/2 a year or more. Pete is correct, but that is common on ipe, pt pine, or whatever you're working with. Soak in 'better' doesn't mean a thing when you are selling a service and a look to your customer. Seal it from the start.

Best case is that ipe sits for 6 months to a year then is cleaned with percarb at low pressure then oil sealed. Ipe or pt pine, regardless, you'll get 1/3 less longevity from any finish first year out. Lead out with that is the expectation to the homeowner. For pt pine, homeowners are better off sealing immediately and getting 2/3rds longevity than letting pt pine weather unprotected for a season. A full season on pt pine looks like it ages it 5 years.

My humble opinion...

Ipe here is $7+/sf...so right at $3.50/lf. All ipe is not created equal. The internet ipe I've worked with looked, worked, and finished far inferior than a good clear all-heart named brand. Good luck on the deck project Ryan! I've got an ipe guy here should you need any skinny.

/neil

[James]

ATO is not failing at 6 months. It's time to reapply a coat because the wood was new and wood not except enough product. Read the can??

With any sealer you will use less product if you do it when the wood is new. Knowing how to handle what you do the second and third times ect,,, ect,,, ect..... is the difference maker. The first finish is the most important..