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IPe problem - Aug 13th, 08, 04:45 PM

I recently asked what stain to use for my Ipe and massandruba deck. I decided with the help of many on this site to go with woodtux. Thanks for that advice but now I need more help.
A little history is in order so that you know what stage I'm at.
I built an Ipe and massandruba deck two summers ago. I let a not so professional finish it with messmers. He used twice as much as necessary and didn't wipe off the excess. (You get what you pay for!) Anyway, so much for my two tone deck. Everything came out super dark. Last fall I rented a drum sander and sanded the whole deck except the railing. It came out good, I evened off the boards which were pretty cupped and the color was back to the way it was originally.
Yesterday and today I used RAD on the railings and the deck with my pressure washer. I sanded the top rails of my railing first as I did not do them last fall. Most of the top rails (ipe) came out good but one of them and many of my floor boards did not come clean. They remained dark. I used the rad as directed and tried it at a stronger dose as well. I was able to sand some of the stubborn dark spots out on the steps. I also had some wolman deck stripper from last year. I gave that a shot on one board that I had already stripped with the rad. It got the ipe back to the original color. So with my bright idea I decided to use it on the entire floor. Some of the boards it worked on and some it made real dark. Also, I know trhe directions of the rad say to make sure you rinse it well. As many times as I go over the deck boards, it still suds up. Will the brightener nuetralize this or do I have to keep rinsing. (i've spent the entire day on about 300 sq ft.)
Can the dark spots be tannin that has been drawn out by the stripper?
How can I get rid of them?
I am sorry for the long post but I could use some advice. I took a few pictures but I haven't had a chance to upload them. I will try later.

Thanks for your advice.
Mike



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Aug 13th, 08, 05:04 PM

Just to make sure we're at the same stage, you've used a stripper but not neutralized at this point?

If that is the case, the darkness could be the chemical in the stripper and needs to be neutralized in order to brighten up. Until you do that and see the dry results, you won't be able to tell if or where you still have potential issues.

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Aug 13th, 08, 05:08 PM

So I should go aheaad and use the brightener? I wasn't sure if I should go past this point. What about the sudsing? Will the stripper neutralize this?
Thanks



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Aug 13th, 08, 08:15 PM

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Aug 13th, 08, 10:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by taizentek View Post
So I should go aheaad and use the brightener? I wasn't sure if I should go past this point. What about the sudsing? Will the stripper neutralize this?
Thanks
Stripper will not "neutralize" anything but a very strong acid. RAD is from what I understand, primarily sodium percarbonate based, a mild caustic. Stripper is very caustic, high on the pH scale. I am sure you may know that if you happened to get any on your skin.

I believe your "problem" is one of perception. Ipe' remains dark in color until fully dried. Judge your cleaning after the wood has dried overnight.

Rinse well one more time with hose pressure, let dry and put down your acid. Then stain away.



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Aug 13th, 08, 11:27 PM

Beth
I'm a fireman but I do carpentry on the side. This deck is actually at my mother's house. I usually try to stay away from any other phases of construction besides those dealing with wood. I should probably leave the deck staining to the pros too but I don't think I can find any that work for beer.

Rick
You're right, I needed to get away from the deck and let it dry. It does look better but it does have water stains on it and a few black spots. And I don't think the massandruba looks that good, but I guess I'll see after I put down the brightener.
I have some rad left over in my sprayer-Do you know if it keeps its potency? I was thinking of cleaning my siding this weekend (if I can get the deck stained before that.
Thanks again
Mike



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Aug 14th, 08, 06:14 AM

Mike,

Quote:
I should probably leave the deck staining to the pros too but I don't think I can find any that work for beer.
Should have called. We work for beer. Lots of very good beer hand brewed by Trappist monks in isolated, feudal Belgium monasteries.

Quote:
I have some rad left over in my sprayer-Do you know if it keeps its potency?
If RAD is sodium percarbonate based, which it very likely is, the answer is no. The mix will lose a good bit of cleaning power within 5 or 6 hours after mixing.



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Aug 14th, 08, 07:40 AM

RAD (EFC-38) has a life of 4-6 hours once mixed. Mix what you will need as you need it. It has a life of about 6-12 months in the powder state.

Beth



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Aug 14th, 08, 04:57 PM

I took some picture of the deck so far. I finished with step two of the rad so I think I'm ready for stain. I can't figure out how to upload the fotos. It took me an 1 hour just to get them as an attachment for an email. Is there something I'm missing.



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Aug 14th, 08, 09:33 PM

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Aug 17th, 08, 08:14 PM

I think I figured out a how to upload.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mom_deck 001.jpg (1.17 MB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg mom_deck 002.jpg (1.22 MB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg mom_deck 003.jpg (1.21 MB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg mom_deck 004.jpg (1.22 MB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg mom_deck 005.jpg (1.09 MB, 15 views)



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Aug 18th, 08, 07:11 AM

Mike,

Looking good. For most stains on ipe', and certainly Wood Tux, a light sanding with a random orbital really does wonders for the look of the final finish. Just to be clear, you sand prior to staining.



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Aug 18th, 08, 08:32 AM

Are we talking going over the whole deck quickly before the stain is applied? When I sanded my top rails (prior to the rad) I used 40 grit and a lot of elbow grease. It seemed that almost no stock was removed.
One more question, I finished with the rad step 2 on thursday and now have had a couple of dry days, but it doesn't look like I will have a chance to start staining until thursday at the earliest. Will I have any issues with ph or anything?
Thanks
Mike



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Aug 18th, 08, 08:49 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by taizentek View Post
Are we talking going over the whole deck quickly before the stain is applied? When I sanded my top rails (prior to the rad) I used 40 grit and a lot of elbow grease. It seemed that almost no stock was removed.
One more question, I finished with the rad step 2 on thursday and now have had a couple of dry days, but it doesn't look like I will have a chance to start staining until thursday at the earliest. Will I have any issues with ph or anything?
Thanks
Mike
Yes. If you do it in just some spots you will see it. Sand or buff the whole thing lightly...LIGHTLY.....then blow off the sawdust with a leaf blower, and seal it.

Beth



See Dirt Run!TM Inc.
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Application - Aug 21st, 08, 12:54 AM

Alright, if the weather is good I plan on LIGHTLY sanding on friday and then staining it the same day. Can I use one of those mitts to apply the stain on the rails/spindles. I don't have access to a sprayer and I really don't want to set up for overspray protection. Any other suggestions are appreciated.
As always, thanks
Mike



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