whats 2 graffiti

[REHAB]

here's a lengthy treatise concerning graffiti, methods to clean it up, and prevention.

If the moderators wish, they can delete this at any time they want. no hard feelings.

as the author, feel free to reprint it or modify it for your own usage or promotion. this is an overview relative to Las Vegas.

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WHAT GRAFFITI IS AND HOW TO DEAL WITH GRAFFITI VANDALISM

A general overview

Graffiti is a symbol, scrawl, words, nicknames, logos, numbers, etc., that is inscribed on a variety of surfaces and structures. It can denote and mean just about anything; limited only by the imagination of the writer. Though graffiti can be employed by various groups and for varied purposes, the two principal types of graffiti are caused either by criminal gangs, or by taggers. Other graffiti, not discussed here, originates from other groups.

Criminal Gangs
Gangs use graffiti to denote territory, franchise rights, membership in a particular set, or to remember fallen comrades. With this type of graffiti, anyone can be the writer . If a list of members are written (termed ‘a roll-call’), the last name on the list is that of the writer. Many times, individuals (wannabees) who aren’t even a member of the set (the term to denote members of a criminal gang)are those who perpetrate this style of graffiti, and assume the nicknames used by their favorite peers. Gangsters within a set can also assume names of other gangsters to whom they emulate (identify with), and can cause confusion where two or more people use the same moniker.

Sets, depending on their ethnic origin or makeup, have various motives for being. Some wish to identify with a specific group, neighborhood, or ideal. Most, however, have some sort of ‘business’ based on a cash flow that allows the members to display wealth and so on. Their graffiti is written in code (secret key words and symbols) and denotes who they are, where they began, members of the local set, goals and motives, challenges to other sets, and drawings in-memory of fallen associates. Gang graffiti is written in dialogue; that is, they want other gangsters to respond to their message. Space is usually left to one side or the other for that purpose.

Though mostly low-key, with occasional flare-ups, examples of this form of graffiti in Las Vegas is LXL (Little Locos (guys) and Lil Locas (girls)), SC (San Chucos or Sin City, depending on the area of town), XVIII-Eighteen-18st (local chapter of Southern California’s largest criminal gang, the 18th streeters), 28th Street (A local Hispanic gang), PRC (Pinoys Real Crazy, a Filipino gang), Rolling 60’s (AKA the Crips), Canoga Park ( a California gang setting up shop in Las Vegas) and BPL (Brown Pride Locos).


Taggers
Another style of graffiti, referred to as tagging, is more prevalent and widespread. The perpetrators of this style (generally referred to as taggers), assume a logo or nickname that serves as a sort of trademark for that individual. Wherever one sees a tag, it was the same individual who wrote it the same tag elsewhere. Taggers are after four things: points, prestige, infamy among their peers brought about through tag-name recognition, and vandalism as a means to ‘get-back’ at society.

Taggers make up a group called a krew. Tagging is a loosely organized point-game with six levels of ‘skill’. Taggers battle against opposing krews, and the most daring exploits bring a better score. The most colorful murals for which taggers are most widely known, are in the 4th to 6th skill level. Those on the lowest levels, within a krew, are named taggers because most of their work is in the form of monotonous scrawl. When the tags start becoming more art-like, using puff letters and extravagant designs, along with multiple color schemes and fills (multi-colored areas within a border), the tagger is then becoming a ‘writer’ and later, a ‘piecer’.

A piece, short for masterpiece, can be several feet in height and length, and denote some sort of pre-planned design or layout, transferred from a notebook, picture, or sketch, onto a wall, vehicle, trailer, train car, etc. A piece, because of intricate layout and multiple colors, may take anywhere from overnight, or up to several weeks to complete. It is common for the ‘journeyman (master) tagger a.k.a. piecer’ to recruit writers (advanced taggers) from within the krew, to serve sort of an informal apprenticeship (a period of learning from a master tradesman) allowing them to learn layout, technique, and style under the supervision of the ‘expert’ piecer.

Taggers who free-lance into piecing are called ‘toys’. To have a tag or the tagger called a toy is a profound insult. To use someone else’s tag can also be cause for a severe beating from within one’s krew, and obviously even more so if the original tag’s perpetrator catches up to the impostor. Property vandalism seems to be common among the two groups of graffiti vandals. However, taggers should not be confused with a criminal gang. Taggers place their tags as a sort of scoring mechanism, while gangsters place their tags as a means of confrontation with other gangsters.

Some of the more recognized tagging krews are TCK (Taggers Causing Kaos), OFA (Official Freeway Assassins- Out For Action), CBK (City Bomberz), WDK (World Domination Krew), FA (Funky Artistics), PM (Polluted Minds), CIAK (Criminals In Action), and CBC (Children Becoming Criminals). The krew name is an acronym and is sometimes based upon the corresponding letters of their phone prefix (E.G.: 4= GHI62 6=MNO 2=ABC. 462=GOA: Gods Of Art). Apart from the krew name are the individual tagger names, e.g., CBK-krew, SPAWN, DEL, ADOR are the individual taggers belonging to the krew.

Some of the terminology used by taggers:

BOMBING or KILLING: The act of placing graffiti.
BUFF: A wall has been buffed when graffiti is covered up or removed.
CAN CONTROL: Municipal laws against graffiti vandalism.
CAPS: Spray tips that determine if the paint line is narrow, wide, round, fuzzy, and so on. 18 tips that cost about $7 for the set, are currently available and fit generic spray paint cans.
CLOUD: A background upon which a piece or tag is written. Whatever color of paint used to buff a wall determines the color of the cloud. Wording within a comic strip is placed within a cloud.
CLOUD CONTROL: Painters that cover up or remove graffiti (usually city or county graffiti abatement workers).
SKATERS, HOT PATCHES, BURNERS, PIECES: Mural type graffiti-art. Burners and skaters are pieces placed on a moving vehicle such as a train or semi-trailer. A hot-patch is a piece placed on a high structure such as a billboard, bridge, or along a rooftop.
THROW-UPS: Large puff-letter type tags. These may be simple one-color borders or with two or three color fills.
WAK: A piece or throwup that didn’t turn out the way the writer/designed wanted it to. Waks can be attributed to paint runs, layout confusion, drunken writers, low light levels, frozen fingers, fist fights among taggers, paint colors mismatch, etc.
WAK WALL: A piece wall that draws taggers from all over. A meeting place for taggers. A showplace for graffiti work. a.k.a. walls of fame.

What to do if you are a victim of graffiti vandalism
contact various municipal graffiti abatement programs. Depending on jurisdiction, graffiti abatement may be contingent on property owners’ permission. Other limitations may also apply.


Clark County Graffiti Abatement Program
The Clark County Graffiti Abatement Program does require property owner permission before graffiti can be covered. A wall that borders on or faces a public street is private property. Once permission is given, the use of one of 7 standard colors of paint allows for economical coverage while maintaining a pleasant visual appearance. The initial painting is performed as a courtesy to the property owner, but it is the owner’s responsibility in all cases to maintain the property and its appearance.

Contractors that abate graffiti using variable methods:
Besides painting over graffiti, other methods exist to abate graffiti markings. The property owner interested in such methods should consult with contractors listed in the ‘Building Maintenance’ section of the Yellow Pages. Of course, any contractual agreement will be at the property owners’ own expense.


Graffiti vandalism affect property values
Graffiti vandalism, whether placed on your property or on adjacent property, does the most harm to property values. Those attempting to sell real estate affected most due to lowered pricing for a sale to occur. Graffiti abatement should be performed in a professional manner so as to restore property values. While anybody can cover or remove graffiti, off-colors of paint or appearance defects do not allow a restoration of property values, either to the immediate property or to properties in the vicinity of the graffiti markings. Graffiti can affect the property values several blocks surrounding a vandalized property.

Graffiti abatement is utilized in all areas of property management; residential, commercial, architectural, art & design, institutional, infrastructure, and in natural environments.

Structural considerations of graffiti abatement methods
Residential graffiti is usually found placed upon block-walls, wood fencing, brick, stucco, concrete, houses, sheds, cars, and steel appliances such as a meter box, light poles, transformers, etc. Neighborhood structures are painted a variable color scheme.

Commercial properties are structures that are built to architectural consideration as a means to attract prospective customers. Function as well as overall appearance is important in this type of construction. Some of the desired appearance considerations are brought about by paint and color scheme. Most business properties have raw surfaces constructed in such a manner that appearance considerations are a focal and functional design. Graffiti blighting on this type of property is expensive because unflawed overall appearances attract customers to do business in a positive setting, and blemishes caused by spot treatment of graffiti can ruin the overall appearance and drive away potential customers.

Institutional property can be a form of commercial property. Their design is to handle large volumes of people who also place high levels of ‘wear and tear’ on such units. While appearance and draw may be a factor, most are built utilizing materials that are easy to clean, maintain, or that stand up to rigors brought about by maximum use. Graffiti eradication here is not as exacting on overall appearances; rather, it is an everyday, tedious, monotonous effort to ready the premises for another onslaught of beings. In most cases here, chemical removers or coatings would be used to control graffiti blighting. Spot imperfections in appearances are not as important and critical as in other construction.

On government and utility infrastructure, which includes traffic signs, light poles, meter boxes, overpasses, culverts, flood channels, sidewalks, streets, and sound walls, graffiti eradication is basically limited to ‘touch-up’ procedures in which the graffiti is removed or covered on small portions of the entire structure. Colors have to be compatible but not exact, and compatible colors may be blended in to get the job done. Color schemes are not as critical here because dirt, water, and pollution tend to discolor these structures in a short period of time.

In a natural setting, graffiti blighting occurs on rocks, trees, signs, and just about anywhere possible. The goal here is to treat the graffiti without destroying living things, or to restore a balance to an area using compatible cosmetic masking or removal. The principal hindrance here is that much of the graffiti is located in or on hard-to-get-to areas.

Vehicles, especially those used for interstate travel, are also very prone to graffiti vandalism. Graffiti vandals get a ‘kick’ when they see graffiti tags going around town or cross-country on the side of a truck or train. Complete repainting of the affected vehicles, full replacement of panel and glass, onto which graffiti is etched using a hardened scribe, is very expensive.

Coloring books, which have blank silhouettes of semi-trailers, buses, rail-cars of various styles, and other delivery vehicles, are obtainable through the graffiti underground. (The graffiti underground is a loose organization of magazines and business enterprises which promote graffiti and supply graffiti-related supplies to budding or professional graffiti perpetrators).

Prompt removal of graffiti is key to incidence of recurrence
Property owners and managers should make it a point to remove or cover graffiti as soon as it is discovered. Showing the vandals that you care about the appearance and condition of your property, and are willing to maintain it, will tend to discourage the graffiti vandal from using your property as an impromptu bulletin-board.

Letting graffiti markings remain on the property will cause other vandals to come around and place their markings on it also. The most important thing for property owners to know is how to take care of graffiti blighting in such a way that will not destroy the integrity and visual appeal of your property after the graffiti is covered or removed, as well as restore property values.

Graffiti can be a one-time occurrence, though a cycle of 3-5 occurrences is common before diminishing graffiti occurs. Again, property owners who are prompt in removing or covering graffiti markings are also those who experience the most positive results concerning recurrence. It may also be possible to recover graffiti abatement costs through the assistance of the local police department that actively prosecutes suspected graffiti vandals. Property damages may also be payable to those who take an active role in cleaning up their communities, expending time, material, and equipment for such purposes.

Almost any innocuous object, compound, tool, or material can be used to place graffiti. The most common methods to apply graffiti involve inks, waxes, epoxies, paint, and inscriptions made with hardened tool scribes. Methods used to eradicate graffiti include painting, chemical removal, surface abrasion, and coating technology. In some cases, replacement of the object marred is necessary, such as glass and metal panels, signage, and plastics.

Painting over graffiti is the most economical, though there are cases where painting will not work to the advantage of the property owner. Most other forms of graffiti eradication, including object replacement, can be moderately to extremely costly. Each of the eradication methods have their advantages and disadvantages. An important consideration in choosing an eradication or maintenance procedure is to base it on the strata of the surface to be cleaned, the desired end-result or goal, and budget allotted to a one-time or multiple-use procedure.

Methods used to combat graffiti
As stated above, one has to determine the type of structure affected by graffiti vandalism in order to determine the preferable abatement method or process. Options fall into one of five principal categories:
1. Covering with paint.
2. Surface abrasion to remove graffiti.
3. Use of chemical solvents and cleaners to remove graffiti markings.
4. Application of graffiti-resistant coatings to deter recurring graffiti and to aid future removal of markings.
5. Replacement of object where graffiti markings cannot me removed or covered.
Each of the methods noted above have their advantages, disadvantages, and trade-offs. One type is going to be more economical, or suited, to the situation at-hand and budget. No one method-type works for all situations.

The most insidious aspect of graffiti vandalism is that any abatement technique will not restore the affected property to its original appearance, unless such vandalism was part of the original design of the structure affected. Besides removing graffiti, chemicals, abrasion, and coatings can also affect structural integrity of the substrate.

Likewise, abatement methods may be adversely affected by climate, temperature, water percolation, pollution, and a myriad of other natural processes. If that isn’t enough, some compounds that remove (emulsify) graffiti may fall under EPA laws concerning generation and disposal of toxic waste.

Restoration of appearance critical aspect of graffiti abatement
In the instance of painting over graffiti markings, one has to treat the entire surface area to get a satisfactory result and to restore the general appearance to as near-original as possible. Without getting too technical, paint color is hard to match exactly. It is affected by dirt, pollution, UV rays, salts, etc. Even paint that was saved for future touch-up work will not match because the portion already applied has been subjected to a different weathering process than that stored in a can inside the garage. For this reason, the entire wall, fence, house, building, shed, bridge, and other structures, have to be repainted in their entirety to get a uniform appearance. Property damages should be based on this fact.

Many times, colors used in the original construction are a blend of multiple colors and an exact color match cannot be made. Again, painting the entire surface area, using a 3-coat system is the only way to acquire esthetic uniformity throughout. One little tag, say 8” x 12”, can be the basis for expensive abatement techniques.

Residential property is less critical and commercial property appearance is very critical. A homeowner that chooses to paint his 40’ x 6’ wall can probably do it for a minimum of $250, which would include high-quality paint, sprayer rental and cleanup, sprayer expendable parts, labor, and professional application. Contractors would charge more due to higher overhead.

Commercial owners generally have to paint the entire building for suitable color matching and overall appearance, crucial to customer draw. To do this, their expenditures are usually in the $2000-$5000 range, though $10,000-$15,000 is not uncommon.

Restoration of overall appearance is the key factor in determining property damages related to graffiti vandalism. In the case of multiple tags, each tagger-individual is responsible for the entire cleanup cost. If just his or her tag were on the structure, the entire property would have to be abated. It is only coincidental that other taggers came along and also incriminated themselves in addition to the tags belonging to another criminal vandal.

Property abatement should include adequate records to recover damages
When someone does abate graffiti on their property, a legible picture should be taken of the graffiti, the date and address noted, and some sort of bill should be made covering aspects of the work performed and expenses made. The owner should make a police report of the incident and submit copies of the photos and billing for expense-recovery to the police for follow-up work in such case that the vandals are arrested. In this way, it may be possible to recover damages through criminal and civil prosecution.


1. Covering graffiti markings with paint.
Latex paint is used because of its relatively low cost, and because color matching over a wide range can make for a suitable cover. This method does not match the texture of raw surfaces such as wood, stuc­co, and cinder-block, and the colors used to paint such surfaces will not match exactly. Water that permeates any of these surfaces will cause discoloration, mildew, and paint bonding problems (peeling for example). A premium quality latex paint costs about $18 per gallon.

For the homeowner, painting block walls is the most cost effective method to eradicate graffiti. Most residential block walls are prone to water permeation that affects paint bonding, and block wall structural integrity. Paint is of sufficient low-cost so as to allow repeated repainting of the surfaces involved. No type of sealer, special paint compound, or graffiti-resistant coatings perform any better on water-permeated walls.

If a block wall is kept dry, a high-quality paint should be expected to last about 5 years without the need to repaint. If stripping is necessary, for whatever reason, most latex can be cleaned off a block wall using high-pressure water spray equipment.

Painting over graffiti on wood fences gets better results if a 100% acrylic resin paint is utilized. These types of compounds usually cost more than regular paint, but have very adhesive qualities, are salt resistant, and tend to flex radically according to the expansion/contraction of wood due to climate conditions. Also, because of salt uptake or buildup into wood grain, paint will peel at some future point; sooner if a paint that is not intended for wood use is used to cover wood surfaces.

Best results for exterior work is made using an airless paint sprayer. Paint consumption by using an airless sprayer is economical and leaves the best overall finish; large surfaces cover easily and in a short period of time. ALL latex paints should be thinned with water using at least one quart of water per 1 gallon of paint. The area to be covered, including graffiti, should be painted with a light coat, sufficient paint so that the graffiti cannot be seen when paint is first applied. After a period of time, say 10-30 minutes, a second coat should be applied over the first. An off-white color may require a third coat of paint.

Whether the paint is applied using a roller, a brush, or with spray equipment, each coat should be applied perpendicular to the previous coat. In other words, if you rolled paint up and down on the first coat, the second coat should be applied using horizontal, back and forth strokes. The third coat, if necessary, utilizing up and down strokes again. By painting using this technique, ribbons and streak will be eliminated from the final dry result, and graffiti will be effectively covered up. .

Spot painting
Many times, people will paint a block-out or spot upon a raw surface, using a brush or roller,. It covers the graffiti, but subsequent painting of the surface using the same or another color of paint cannot eradicate the unsightly block-outs or spot-painted areas. By spraying the entire surface using an airless sprayer and by applying at least two coats of paint on such a raw surface, subsequent block-out painting or spot-painting is least likely to create an unsightly monstrosity that cannot be fixed, or covered later.

Some compounds used to write graffiti require a sealer prior to painting
To cover up graffiti that has been made using a spray enamel, most times no sealer need be used. Rather, just paint right over it using a high-quality latex paint.
Exceptions are day-glow florescent paints, ink markers, lumber crayons, etc. ‘Bleeders’ are a favorite item for graffiti vandals. They can place a tag that, unless one knows how to properly prepare the surface for painting, will reappear after all the other tags are covered. Some bleeders reappear immediately, but others are time delayed. Any ink or waxy compound that is black, blue, green, or red is suspect and should be sealed prior to painting the wall. Not all of the things that are those colors bleed, but why take a chance in having to do the job over after something bleeds through?

A popular but formidable compound, spray rubber undercoating is not spray paint, and most minors can purchase it at any auto-parts store. It looks like paint, sprays like paint, comes in a can like paint, but it isn’t paint. From a distance it looks black, but close inspection reveals a bronze or slight brown color.

The best sealer that I have found to use on any of these graffiti compounds is plain old silver paint. Spray it on, let it dry, if anything has bled through, apply more silver paint and let it dry again. Then paint over it using latex paint.


2. Surface abrasion to remove graffiti.

Power-washers
A power washer is a pump that is designed to handle plain water, and its interior parts are not corroded by it. An extremely high-pressure water stream is also determined by the amount of water fed into the pump, as well as the nozzle on the end of the spray hose. Another determining factor is the rated horsepower of the electric motor, or gasoline engine; the higher the horsepower, the higher the pressure capability on output.

Power-washers are used in conjunction with detergents and other solvent cleaners, and in effect, erase graffiti markings from most smooth surfaces. The downside is that they also tend to be very heavy, with awkward mobility, and a water source close to the unit has to be provided. Many power-washers have the capability to heat water. Heated water tends to dissolve graffiti and graffiti-resistant coatings a little better.

Pressure-washers can cost anywhere from $500 up to $15,000, and weigh anywhere from 120 lbs., up to 4000 pounds. Because of their awkwardness and weight, it is easier to purchase extra pressure hose to reach the intended target, than to have to move the washer around to accommodate the user. Power-washers can be trailer-mounted, along with a water tank and related equipment, and seem to work out better this way.

slurry-blasters
Power washers have accessories, such as nozzles and special hook-ups, allowing for the use of an abrasive material to be fed down-line, giving the high-pressure water the ability to abrade a surface; sort of like using a very coarse sandpaper. This method is termed ‘slurry-blasting’. It is a form of sandblasting, but slightly safer for surrounding people because the abrasive material is wet and does not subject the operator and other bystanders to inhalation of silica dust.

Nevertheless, in some states, the EPA requires site cleanup of the abrasive material that can cause inhalation problems when it dries out and is blown about by wind.

Slurry-blasters can add $1000 to the cost of a pressure washer, plus accelerate wear on hoses and tips. Abrasion removal of graffiti requires experienced and knowledgeable operators. The power unleashed to remove graffiti may also destroy any structure at which it is aimed. If the operator is competent and experienced, damage can be limited or non-existent.

Substrate durability is key factor in use of abrasion equipment
The principal challenge in using the slurry-blast method, is to determine beforehand if the structure to be abraded can reasonably withstand the force and extreme wear caused by this method and the equipment used. Materials such as cinder-block, wood, siding, and others, are too soft for this type of cleaning. Slump-stone (which is a harder concrete-aggregate block), concrete, stone, brick, rock formations, etc., are hard enough to withstand repeated cleaning by this method. To use this method on soft materials can cause immediate and irreparable surface destruction. Damage may not be readily apparent until the structure has dried out, several hours later.

Cleaning a surface using this method, tends to leave a darker spot where the graffiti was located. This darker spot is from darker matrix coloration and does not fade out with time. If the operator doesn’t ‘feather-out’ the areas cleaned, many times the graffiti compound is removed, but the graffiti message is etched permanently into the structure’s surface and is readily apparent after the whole surface completely dries out. Because a portion of the actual structure is removed through abrading processes, and the portion cleaned is now actually an engraving into the wall surface, subsequently painting over the unsightly and unintended blemish may not remove it from plain view. Practically the only thing that can fix such a blemish, is to tear down the wall and rebuild it using new material.

Sand-Blasters
Sand-blasters have tanks that hold abrasive sand or pellets, and are either used in conjunction with pressure-washers, or with compressed air. Abrasive material is fed into a pressure chamber and then discharged through the spray gun. Not only is sandblasting hard on the surface it is pointed at, but is equally hard on the hoses and spray nozzles, which must be replaced frequently.

Other variations in abrasion equipment
Variations of the sand -blaster, such as a soda -blaster, utilize different abrading mediums and working pressures to accomplish graffiti removal.. Soda-blasters are pressure units that are sold apart from other machinery and can cost anywhere from $20,000 up to $50,000. The baking soda method, referred to as soda-blasting, uses a low-pressure nozzle that can even remove graffiti from clear glass without clouding the affected surface. Of course, operator expertise and experience is a major factor in such cleaning. These alternative methods are also very expensive.

Abrasive cleaning is best left to professional contractors
Sandblasting, soda-blasting, pressure-washing, etc., are not high-production capable. Their limitation is that they are focused on cleaning up a small area, generally just graffiti, on structures not amenable to painting (such as statutes, sculptures, glass, mirrors, metal, or architectural designs and like parameters. Most of these also require two or more additional personnel.

Because of the extreme pressures and substrate limitations regarding abrasive removal and cleaning, as well as the wide range of accessory equipment and personnel also utilized when such equipment is in use, this is a job best left up to the professional contractor. It is one thing to experiment on one’s own property, but the inherent liability in using such equipment does require bonding and adequate property and workmen’s’ liability insurance coverage. Possible OSHA and EPA codes may also apply to their usage.

3. Use of chemical solvents and cleaners to remove graffiti markings.
For most property affected by graffiti vandalism, using a solvent to remove graffiti seems to be the first choice. Compounds and their effectiveness in graffiti removal are dependent on a variety of factors. A specific product or compound must be used for a specific compound that was used to write the graffiti. The type of substrate on which the graffiti was written also plays an important part.

Determine beforehand how the solvent of-choice will affect the substrate, apart from the effects on the graffiti. It also helps to know what the basic active ingredient in the graffiti remover is. Is it a petroleum distillate? Does it eat up plastics? Is the active ingredient a caustic alkali or a corrosive acid? Will the residue of the graffiti remover stain the substrate and can the residue by removed or neutralized? Will the graffiti removal compound blister human skin, damage the lungs or eyes, or cause other health problems? Will the remover dissolve just the graffiti paint, or does it also dissolve the underlying original paint at the same time?

It helps to obtain a sample and to experiment on spots that aren’t easily noticed. When things go wrong, they can go wrong big-time! Things go wrong when inadequate testing or preparation beforehand happens.

Is the remover intended for wax compounds, such as lipstick and surf-wax (many homemade graffiti compounds are a mixture of these two ingredients)? What about generic spray enamels? Epoxy enamels? Magic Markers? Florescent paints? Latex caulk? How does it deal with latex paint that underlies the graffiti? Knowing the probable compound that is to be removed, as well as the substrate on which it is placed, goes a long way to obtaining the correct type of graffiti remover.

Graffiti removers can be anything from paint and lacquer thinner, to industrial caustic cleaners, to organic solvents made from orange peels. Citrus-based solvents tend to be the safest, and also happen to work on a wide-range of compounds that can be used to apply graffiti. Nevertheless, sometimes the job requires a harsh solvent, such as aircraft paint stripper that contains methylene chloride. (Not only does it strip paint, but it can strip the skin from your fingers.)

There is no one best remover to use.
At best, choosing a graffiti remover is a trial-by-error endeavor. Even after one is chosen and seems to work well, factory formulas may change, leaving the user out in the cold. Be careful of one thing though: there are quite a few sales-personnel that sell products that simply don’t work under the conditions to which you would subject them. Paint strippers also tend to strip wallets; your wallet!

Chemicals which remove graffiti costs about $50 gallon. Most use a compound which is a mixture of xylene and caustic lye. These products will remove latex, enamel, inks, and most similar-type products. For porous surfaces, removal is best performed by brushing the chemical onto the surface, waiting a short time, and then using a high-pressure hot water jet to remove the graffiti. Some of these products are oily, and have a peculiar smell that can last for several days and permeate clothing.

When possible, use a power-washer to aid in the graffiti-removal process. Power-washers that generate their own hot-water tend to perform best and clean surfaces better than any other method or process. Power-washers used in conjunction with organic-based detergents and graffiti removers also produce the best results. If the graffiti is located on a porous surface, it is adamant that a power-washer be used in conjunction with the graffiti-removal product.

4. Application of graffiti-resistant coatings to deter recurring graffiti and to aid future removal of markings.

When paint is applied to a surface, prior to curing, liquid paint enters into pores of substrates, and as it dries, it locks its grip on that surface. If a paint is less than high-quality, it will deteriorate under climatic conditions, and eventually fall off.

Water permeation can also accelerate the loosening of that bond through indirect action caused by its direct action of substrate integrity deterioration. A graffiti-resistant coating works by sealing up the pores by which paint would normally attach itself to the substrate; no pores, no bond.

Hundreds of compounds exist that will hinder graffiti compound bonds. Spray enamel, caulk, inks, waxes, etc., in most cases, can be washed or wiped off from surfaces treated with such compounds. Expensive brick, tile, stonework, architectural design, glass, metal, and so on, can be treated with such coatings, and virtually exist without graffiti blemishes and discoloration caused by graffiti or environmental damages.

Most of these compounds employ a two-part system. The base coat is a permanent compound, and the top coat is a renewable compound. Coverage is about 200 sq. ft. per gallon or less, and the cost is about $60 per gallon. The top coat gets washed away with each subsequent cleaning and has to be reapplied; some more frequently than others. Some require the use and additional purchase of special solvent cleaners.

Environment a factor in use and application of graffiti-resistant coatings
Besides being expensive, some are obnoxious compounds which require full safety protection of the worker applying them to substrates; goggles, organic respirators, full body protective-clothing, gloves, boots, etc. Some are formulated for painted surfaces and others for raw surfaces only. Ambient temperature and natural processes can affect them. For example, sacrificial top coatings formulated with some types of hard wax, can get gummy or sticky in hot weather. Lean against a wall with such a coating and you will likely take a souvenir home with you; a souvenir that won’t be easily removed from the clothing. The owner of the fence may also be held liable to cover the replacement cost of damaged clothing.

For best results, hire a professional contractor to apply graffiti-resistant coatings
Again, coatings fall under the realm of the specialized contractor. These are not products geared towards normal homeowner parameters. These are formulations geared towards industrial, commercial, institutional, and specialized architectural demands and specifications. Contractors that apply these products also do the periodic maintenance and re-application that may be required. They also keep additional equipment on-hand necessary for the application and surface maintenance.

Most require the use of high-pressure hot water to remove any graffiti, and an additional top coat must be applied after each cleaning (there are exceptions) to maintain the effective resistant properties of the paint.

GRAFFITI PREVENTION
When properly utilized, landscaping is an effective graffiti-prevention measure and can enhance the surrounding environment. The use of trees, shrubs, clinging vines, and bushes should be used to screen solid walls. Building a wall utilizing a setback wherein shrubs can be planted in front of the wall/fence can form an excellent deterrent to the graffiti vandal.

Crime and graffiti occurs when a group or individual has the desire, the ability, and the opportunity to commit the crime. Of these three elements, Prevention-Through-Design offers us a way to eliminate some of the opportunity. Proper planning can and does have an effect on the type and rate of crime, graffiti, and other anti-social behavior.

A crib wall could be installed in place of solid retaining walls. A crib wall will form a planter in front of a wall or fence, or form terrace planters on a slope. Plant drought-tolerant plants, shrubs, trees, that are vertical growing and that could cover bare spots and walls.

Security lighting can be effective in discouraging graffiti. It is important to have lights placed high enough so that they do not become vandalized. The glare of the light should be directed towards the vulnerable surfaces.

High efficiency, Low Pressure Sodium Vapor (LPSV) lights seem to be the most effective as a graffiti deterrent. LPSV lights have been known to deter loitering, and most people find this type of light unflattering. LPSV's tend to distort all colors except yellow; reds look brown and flesh tones appear gray.

Hidden areas such as blind corners, dead ends, and narrow alleys protect the vandal from public view, and should be avoided and eliminated whenever possible. Parked cars, trucks, trailers, and stacked materials also contribute to hidden areas that may protect the graffiti vandal from view.

Community service and area cleanups

Neighbors helping neighbors is the only real way to dominate graffiti vandalism in one’s community. There are means by which key players can be trained in the proper use of painting equipment as well as in application of anti-graffiti products. Under local ordinance it may even be possible for concerned neighbors to identify, prosecute, and receive property damages for work and material used to cover graffiti in their neighborhood. The ideal situation would be for volunteers to maintain the visual appearance of their neighborhoods over long-term periods; rather than doing a one-time service.

There are classes available to teach interested community volunteers how to document graffiti vandalism in the neighborhood and turn in precise evidence to aid local law-enforcement in apprehension of the graffiti vandal. Other portions of such classes deal with painting equipment, paint application, safety parameters, and liability on the part of those performing the work. After successful completion of this course, volunteers would have conditional access to spray equipment and paint, through the efforts of Metropolitan Police Department, Clark County Parks & Recreation, Clark County Public Response Office, and contracted Paint Vendors.

Liability for those attempting to cover graffiti in their neighborhood
A few words about liability. ALL walls and fences that face a public street is not PUBLIC property; IT IS PRIVATE PROPERTY. Get permission from the property owner (usually the person who owns the house, building, or business directly adjacent to that portion of it), before attempting to paint it. To paint without permission is to place yourself in-line for a civil lawsuit. Equally important in obtaining permission to paint, is to also be sure that the property owner wants your color of paint to be used on his property.

When preparing to paint a structure, see to it that adjacent personal property (bicycles, lawnmowers, sheds, vehicles, etc.) is moved at least 50 feet away from the spray zone. Paint overspray, while greatly lessened when using airless spray equipment, can insidiously get on things and the part or property may have to be cleaned, repainted, or even replaced. If the overspray was caused by you, though you intended to paint something else, legally you may also have to pay for cleaning, repair, or replacement of the affected adjacent property as well.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure
When painting a wall, look on the other side before commencing to paint just to see if other property may be at-risk for overspray. Overspray has a tendency to roll over the top and then down, when painting a block wall. Wind gusts can carry over-spray mists laterally onto cars parked nearby, or onto any other surface that is within the spray zone

[PWNC]

That's a lot of good information - thank you The PWNC has been examining graffiti problems in the Carolinas and ways that we can aid in the cure and hopefully prevention.

[REHAB]

ADEQUATE PICTURE EVIDENCE

To take a picture, I advise that you take a can of contrasting paint to write the following information on a wall next to a tag, or hook a white board over the fence or adjacent to a tag, and note the address, date, zip code, size of entire wall, and your intitials.

take a picture of each tag, rather than a broadshot of the whole tagged area, and compile a damage estimate using a base price of $0.25-0.50 cents per square foot, based on the complete wall area (because to restore visual uniformity, your work will require you to examine or blend in with the entire surface).

If using a chemical, factor in the minimum setup fee plus all other labor and efforts.

Though there may be various tags, it costs just as much to abate one as to abate all, and the mistake many make is to divide the costs among all tags.

a tag is like an unregistered trademark, and whomever wrote 'mic' in one place is the same guy at another that wrote 'mic', and that vandal must answer for all placements.

On letterhead, make up a bill covering your costs, with copies of pictures of each specific tag per bill, total it up, and submit that to the PD. Maybe get the municipality to put up posters to turn in a tagger @ $250-$1000 per head anonymously through crimestoppers or something like that.

Once one is identified, to get out of a jamb and a large fine, the taggers usually squeal on others, and the landslide starts.

In criminal court, this involves penalties for incarceration and community service- usually the best route for juveniles.

Civil court involves fines that can be placed on a vandal's credit report as a lien, among with other penalties.

the best route when a neam and subject is identified is to take all the incidents of that vandal's moniker and stack them into a single case and conviction, increasing the likelihood of a felony conviction and stiff penalties.