Need help with a pavilion type structure

[Ron G.]

Hoping some of you Woody’s can help me out here. I don’t have many wood resto’s under my belt and I need to submit a bid on this structure.

The foot print is 30x60, the wood measured out just under 3k sq. ft. I will be just cleaning and neutralizing.

The wood appears to be eastern white pine, tongue and grove. Never been treated.

My experiences in the past with this type of wood is that it furs like crazy. I would like to avoid this as much as possible.

Can you please advise me on proper chems. / process. I’m thinking maybe percarb or light bleach, yes, no?

I have used EFC-38 in the past on a cedar shake resto, I worked great.

Thanks, Ron.

A couple pics.

[Beth n Rod]

Since this is bare wood, prewet it first with plain water and then apply a percarb at lower concentration between each support beam to keep the dwell time to a minimum on the ceiling. Wash that section then apply and wash another and so on...
I would not choose EFC-38 for the ceiling as it contains stripping agents which will assuredly cause fuzzing.
As for the tables and such, EFC-38 would be great because it will help to get rid of some of the stains embedded from food and drinks. A light bleach mixture after the wash on wet wood will help with some of the kool-aid type stains and more but follow with a complete rinse and then neutralize.

Rod!~

[RPetry]

Ron,

Some clarification if you will on two of your pictures. In the first large view of the interior, the wood looks to be relatively clean. In contrast, the third close up picture of the T&G pine shows wood that is either covered in some type of spores, shotgun mildew, or very interesting dirt. Any idea or can you elaborate?

Off hand, I would think a diluted, say 2% bleach mix with a bit of soap could be applied after wetting the wood. With a few large, soft truck brushes, quickly and lightly scrub the wood while the solution is still wet. Apply more if needed before it dries out.

Rinse with very low, dump tip pressure. Rinse a second time. Unless you or the customer wants to lighten the color of the pine further, I do not think that an acid application is needed.

Test this on a small, out of the way area of the wood before going into production.

[plainpainter]

That doesn't look like white pine - that looks like southern yellow pine, aka pressure treated - without the pressure treating.

[plainpainter]

Downstream a simple cherry house wash mix and brush it - then rinse, you'll be fine Ron. BTW -how's business down where you are?

[Ron G.]

Originally Posted by Beth n Rod

I would not choose EFC-38 for the ceiling as it contains stripping agents which will assuredly cause fuzzing.

Rod!~

Thanks, Rod

[Ron G.]

Originally Posted by RPetry

Ron,

Some clarification if you will on two of your pictures. In the first large view of the interior, the wood looks to be relatively clean. In contrast, the third close up picture of the T&G pine shows wood that is either covered in some type of spores, shotgun mildew, or very interesting dirt. Any idea or can you elaborate?

Off hand, I would think a diluted, say 2% bleach mix with a bit of soap could be applied after wetting the wood. With a few large, soft truck brushes, quickly and lightly scrub the wood while the solution is still wet. Apply more if needed before it dries out.

Rinse with very low, dump tip pressure. Rinse a second time. Unless you or the customer wants to lighten the color of the pine further, I do not think that an acid application is needed.

Test this on a small, out of the way area of the wood before going into production.

Rick, the majority of the wood appears just as the close up. Covered in black spots (mold).

I will perform a test using the process you suggest. I will apply to two seperate areas, one of the spots I will apply an acid to see what type of a color shift occurs.

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

[Ron G.]

Originally Posted by plainpainter

BTW -how's business down where you are?

Hi Dan, I am very happy overall the way things have turned out thus far.

For me this is not my fulltime job, with that said, I have managed to payoff 12k in equipment upgrades this year. At this point I'm not sure of my numbers but I'm way above last years sales. Roof washing is what I'm pushing the most and it is paying off. If we are lucky we have 12+ weeks remaining until that white stuff appears. The push is on big time!

I hope things are going as well with you Dan.

[plainpainter]

Well - I am getting there, just sent out another 1900 mailers. Then hopefully get some more work and re-send some fliers to folks I sent out in July. And then hopefully get some gutter cleaning as the leaves fall. I may be down total from last years earnings - but my pressure washer earning may actually go up - we'll see.

[Ron G.]

A couple pics of todays testing.

Forgot to mention.
Downstreamed my regular house wash mix (12 % & S.C.), brushed, rinsed thoroughly, applied ox, rinsed again. Absolutly 0 furring!

Damn fine results, can't wait to knock the customers socks off with results.

Once again, thanks to all of you.

[James]

Ron, just become a "BleachBoy"!!

[Beth n Rod]

Sweet!!!! That is going to be beautiful.
Beth

[RPetry]

Ron,

Looks real nice. Bleach does a great job on mold/mildew. Take plenty of before/after pictures, the job will help in future sales.

[plainpainter]

I don't understand the acid application afterwards? the bleach solution by itself will get the wood to look like that.

[MMI Enterprises]

That light a grayout comes clean with most anything with a little bleach. I suggest Clorox Cleanup cleaner as it's got the right amount of bleach as well as some other additive cleaners/surfactants to break through any polution or carbon/grease/smoke layer from bbq's.