Need advice concerning a solid stain deck recoating.

[JamesonBlade]

Hello,

I just registered because I had been online researching the proper procedure to stain a deck, have some fundamental inquiries to make, and after reading a few threads I decided this seemed like the correct place to be. I have done much interior painting, but not much deck work.

I went to evaluate the deck I am going to bid on earlier this afternoon. It was coated with blue solid stain that appeared to be chipping ONLY on a small gate that was hinged above he deck stairs. The coating on the deck floor itself seemed to be in favorable shape. The coating was dull, not glossy, and I believe the customer wanted it restained because the color was fading from the weather, and the coating was spotted in areas. There was also a patio surrounded by rocky landscaping and plants below the deck, which although the deck boards are set very tightly, would most likely call for covering if it were to be "slopped-n-mopped" and brushed. Also, there are no railing pickets, instead there is vertical detailed glass.

Here are my questions, and feel free to ad any advice you deem necessary.

1. What procedure is proper for the best product? Should I brush/backroll, brush with a pole-attachable brush and hand brush only, spray and backroll, or spray only? Are different procedures acceptable for different conditions?

2. Since the stain is in relatively good condition, do I need to strip, or should I powerwash only? If stripping is necessary, what product should I use?

3. Should I prime?

4. How much should the lack of pickets affect the price?

5. Is sanding the entire surface effective, or just ideal? Should I only spot sand?

One guy on another thread said that solid stain covers solid stain without need for stripping. I'm pretty sure the customer just wants the deck recolored the same, or at least close to what the existing color is. I just need to know where the overhead should go. Renting a sprayer and taping plastic to the siding and so forth, or laying drops on the patio in case of drip through the boards with brush application, and saving the cash to rent a sprayer.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[seymore]

Pics would help and do you know what product was used that's on the deck now?

[Beth n Rod]

Welcome to TGS!
I have moved your thread since this is a deck you are bidding and you are not a homeowner asking questions (DIYer). I'm sure our wood loving members will be glad to help you out. Please post pics if you have got them. They truly help to diagnose the job at hand.

Again, welcome to TGS.
Beth

[Barry M]

Your post definately shows you have a painting background, talking about spot sanding and priming, but I don't mean that in a negative way. I commend your choice to come searching for answers. The proper way to reseal a deck is to strip off any old sealer with a sodium hydroxide stripper and no more than 1000psi of water pressure. I normally use less pressure than that and depend more on the stripper to do the work. After a complete strip you need to brighten/neutralize the wood with oxalic or citralic acid and then allow the wood to dry for several days before sealing. This of course is a very general description and I would highly recommend using the search function to do more research. The first thing you need to do is find out if the old sealer that is on there now is strippable. Most carry a spray bottle full of stripper and will do a little test spot on a vertical in a somewhat hidden spot on the deck. This will give you an idea if the deck is strippable and what dwell time you might be looking at. I wouldn't take the job on or shoot the homeowner a price until you do this, or it could end up eating your lunch. The problem with spot sanding and priming is that the new sealer won't adhere properly and in 9 months the deck will look like crap again. I have walked away from a few decks that failed my strip test. I just told the homeowner I can't strip whats on there (usually a solid latex) and that I don't want my name tagged on something that is half assed. Just my .02 cents. Others will chime in I'm sure.

Oh, and a side note. That large font size is annoying....lol

[Deck Guy]

Well, there are always alternate ways of doing things here so...

1. You need to know what type stain is on the deck. Ask the homeowners if they have an old can of it laying around, because...

2. You won't necessarily need to strip the deck if you can be certain that what you plan to use is compatible with what's already on there. Of course, it would be best to get the exact same stuff if possible.

With a solid stain, I have had good success cleaning, then spot sanding and applying new stain. I did one this year that had a portion undercover, and a portion exposed to the elements. He wanted just the fading and chipping area recoated. I was reluctant to try it this way, but the homeowner said not to worry how it would turn out, and he understood that I was just following his instructions. The stain he had used was discontinued, so I had my SW store custom mix some to match. In the end, the new stain had a bit more sheen or gloss, but the color was a perfect match. I cleaned the entire deck first with bleach and detergent, sanded the area to be stained to knock off any loose coating, and rolled a fresh coat on.

[Barry M]

Larry

I'm curious how long that Deckscapes last over top the old sealer. I realize you didn't promise your customer anything and you gave them what they wanted. This is just why I don't like doing jobs like this, because if it fails in a year then who are they going to call? Then you have a real mess to strip.

[Deck Guy]

Originally Posted by Barry M

Larry

I'm curious how long that Deckscapes last over top the old sealer. I realize you didn't promise your customer anything and you gave them what they wanted. This is just why I don't like doing jobs like this, because if it fails in a year then who are they going to call? Then you have a real mess to strip.

I can't say how long it will last done this way, but I can say I have a deck I did 4 years ago where it's still going strong, and was applied after a combination of sanding and stripping latex paint, where I got only maybe 80% off before staining (before I knew how to pass on jobs like that).

This latest job wasn't applied over a sealer as you said, it was applied over a solid stain...there is a difference. According to the guys at SW, latex over oil is OK, oil over latex is another story. I also don't generally let the customer talk me into anything that will be a problem down the road, but there was no confusion on his part as to my warranty or lack therof. Not to mention, it looks pretty good, and I expect it to last. I hope he does call me if he has problems. Pro Golfer, Great guy, no BS, quick pay...what's not to like.

[Palmetto Home and Deck]

God, I hate it when people put a solid stain on a deck. It's just a personal opinion of mine I suppose as I like the look and feel of natural wood. However, other people have their own opinions and you will always find someone that either already has or wants a solid stain on their deck.

Just for a choice of products Cabot's has a decent solid stain, so does SW with their WoodScapes, but the one I have found that is the best as far as fade resistance is Sun Proof by Pittsburg Paints. Look for it at a Porter Paint store .

[PressurePros]

I don't see any problem with recoating it using restoration techniques like you described. Be sure to do a close inspection of all areas to look for signs of blistering. I would also do a prime coat as the solid that is on there now is probably oxidized.

[JamesonBlade]

I called the homeowner and found out that it's Behr Solid Stain on there right now. Since the original stain is in alright condition, could I just recoat it, or will it turn out much better with stripping, neutralizing, and then recoating?

[Beth n Rod]

1. Clean it, and recoat the floors and rail caps which are probably all that need attention.
Quick thought: Check the label to see if the mfr. recommends a primer 1st.
Otherwise follow step 1.

Rod!~

ps, we don't like solid stains either. They present a nightmare for those who purchase the property and don't like the color.

[b.renewdeck]

we have a customer whom we did his fence. I noticed that his deck looked like someone stood back and turned there sprayer to high and just nailed this thing. It looks horrible and now the customer wants me to strip his deck and make it match his fence... His fence is about a year..I put on Colonial redwood transparent by superdeck (superstain). Looks awesome. His deck though has Deckscapes waterborne natural cedar bark. Would look ok but the guys who stained it really did a shotty job. Heavy is some spots and missed in others. Deck is about three years old
I just have a couple questions,..1 What should I use to get this stuff off?
2.Can I get the wood to its natural look and take the
transparent he wants on there.
3.will it look good.
I would appretiate any help.
Thanks
Brian

[Beth n Rod]

Brian,
Welcome to TGS. Please add your signature.
Beth